Using Photoshop to Prepare Art Files for Shirt Printing

Exercise you want to impress a photo on a T-shirt? Maybe a grouping shot of your family that will be a souvenir, or a new company logo that is colorful or photograph-realistic. Maybe it'due south a large picture of your own face up (hey, to each their own). In all of these scenarios, your image should be optimized to get the best results for a print. This web log post will show you exactly how to exercise that.

Of course, our Art Department can do information technology for y'all– if you lot ask. But if y'all're like me, and adopt to exist in control of it yourself, you will need to accept Adobe Photoshop or another graphics program. Otherwise, I recommend using a complimentary program like Photopea, which has all the features of Photoshop and tin be used through your browser.

It may be a skilful thought to familiarize yourself with the basic functions, and the layout of the diverse tools before getting started. And if any of these graphics programs present besides much of a learning curve, try using Pixlr X, a simple online photo editor which has nearly of the features that I volition be showing y'all. Now on to optimizing!

Why optimize your image?

There an acronym y'all might exist familiar with called WYSIWYG, pronounced "whizzy-wig" and it stands for What You Meet is What You lot Get. When information technology comes to press photographs and other graphic designs onto shirts, information technology's more than like WYSINWYG: What You Encounter is Not What you go. Even with the all-time artwork possible.

A print will always have a reduction in graphic appearance, detail, and color vibrancy from what's on your screen.

Colors will alter

When looking at the colors of a estimator paradigm, y'all're looking at an ideal version. Because of color modes, the image can never accurately translate to a printed image. Whatever honest impress company should tell you that. That way, you don't become your hopes too high. Unhappiness comes from unmet expectations– and nosotros desire y'all to be happy.

Ok, that'due south a little too happy.

If we're screen printing with Plastisol, nosotros can print with all of the brightest colors bachelor. The thing is, screen printing is non typically recommended for photographic images. And even when y'all do, information technology comes with its own prepare of challenges and drawbacks– only worth it for large orders.

This post is focusing mostly on printing photos with digital, direct-to-garment press, or DTG. Cheque out my mail service on screen press vs DTG for more info on both decoration methods and how they compare to each other.

The example GIF beneath shows the disappointing difference in color modes when you convert. The colors in RGB mode (estimator) are much more brilliant and saturated because figurer screens are lit from backside. In CMYK way (printed) the light source is coming from in front end of it, then you can't get those brilliant colors– at to the lowest degree non with normal CMYK printing. Larn more than about RGB vs. CMYK hither.

Sometimes our printers get a lil' crazy with the ink.

The good news is there are things we can exercise to requite you the best possible take chances of getting the printed image to come close to what y'all come across on the computer. For i affair, our digital printers practice a better job than what you lot see higher up, past using two additional colors: vivid red and greenish. So our machines are effectively CMYK+RG: six colors rather than four.

On top of that, nosotros can do things to optimize your epitome for digital printing, some of which I'll be detailing in this postal service. Once again, we're happy to exercise these things for yous in the Art Department, but y'all have to ask when you lot put in your order.

My… dudes… hook… a… brotha… upwardly.

Just if y'all're someone who likes taking care of things on your own so you can exist in charge of the expect, or you lot just love learning new skills, this post is for you!

How to optimize your image for T-shirt printing

The following are my top x steps to heighten and better your photo, preparing it for a successful print. These steps will work with any photograph, and if you lot follow my instructions, I guarantee you'll finish upward with something much better so you started with. Here is the case photo I will be using to go through these tips, from the free stock photograph site Pexels:

1. Beginning with the highest resolution

The start tip is the most important tip of all, and it's by far the biggest issue we deal with in our Art Department on a daily basis: images submitted with a low resolution. The prototype below is an bodily-size example of a too-small size people submit to us on any given 24-hour interval. While it might wait okay on the screen, there is a major problem: the resolution is very low.

What is prototype resolution?

Resolution is essentially how many pixels an image has. Typical web resolution is 72 PPI (pixels per inch). The ideal resolution for printing is 200 PPI or more than–at full size . That final bit is crucial. Even if you do have something that is 300 PPI, if its merely 2 inches wide when information technology needs to be printed at 12″ broad, the resolution is notwithstanding too depression. Zoom in and take a look.

Compare the image quality in this close-up between low and loftier resolution and you tin can come across why it'southward so important:

A print will never exist as clear and detailed as the original image, no matter how much you optimize it, or how well y'all impress it. It's the nature of the creature. So kickoff out with the highest resolution possible, because it can only get worse.

Go to the pull-down menu "Image > Image Size" to run into what you're working with. Below is what information technology should look similar when yous have a dainty big file with a high resolution. As you tin can see, whether at 72 PPI and 78″ broad, or 300 PPI and 18″ wide, the number of pixels remains the same. (Uncheck "Resample Image" to keep the number of pixels the same as you change size.)

Do you have a vector file rather than a raster? Or some other image format? For more than about the various file types, read my in-depth web log mail about submitting the best file types for press.

Tin can I accept a small prototype and just increment the certificate size or the number of pixels?

Yes and no. Meaning yes, yous tin– but no, information technology'due south not going to help much. Photoshop does a thing where it tries to compensate for scaling up a pocket-size prototype by adding a slight blur to the edges to mask the jagged pixels and artifacts. The zoomed-in epitome beneath shows y'all the departure. In the centre, you can see how there is some smoothing, but the quality is still lousy.

Patently its no substitute for a high-res photograph. So make that call, ship that email, practice whatever yous take to do to go it!

Become find that hullo-res epitome file.

If you have multiple versions, compare them. If information technology'southward your photograph, you may want to re-download the largest format from your photographic camera (typically RAW). If it wasn't yours, check with the original creative person or photographer. If it's a stock photo, get dorsum and download the biggest version. For images from the spider web, employ Google's Advanced Image Search to go the best file.

Once you become the highest-resolution file available, information technology can be sized for printing. Merely in that location is i step to practise first: cropping.

2. Crop the prototype

Cropping is essentially chopping off areas of the image that are unneeded. With a well-thought-out crop, yous tin properly center your subject field, increase the size of the subject relative to the rest of the photograph, and frame the subject in a fashion that makes the most sense. In Photoshop, y'all simply hit the "C" button and your crop tool will appear, along with grid lines.

In my example crops in a higher place, in that location is no right answer. I'g going with crop "A" for this image, which leaves visible some of the background elements: the heaven, the mountains, and the lake. Certain crops may be objectively better than others, just it'southward by and large a subjective decision and based on your design, what you want to show and communicate with your image.

Here is our image afterwards cropping. We lose some groundwork, just our subject area is closer and taking upwardly more than relative space.

Pro tips:

1. Leave breathing room effectually the subject. Cropping too closely tin create a slightly claustrophobic outcome.
2. Go along the details in mind. In this case, I felt it was important to go out the man's wedding ceremony ring in the shot.
3. Pay attention to the edges. Leaving partial elements tin can create unwanted visual distractions. (Do you see them?)
4. Centering the subject is not necessarily the best. Utilize the Rule of Thirds for more interesting compositions.

three. Resize the prototype

At present it's time to set the size for printing. In other words, how big or small the epitome will appear on the garment. And this should only come after information technology's been cropped considering now we know where the exact boundaries are.

Read my blog post almost the sizing of standard print locations or cheque out my standard print locations infographic for a quick run downwardly. For more in-depth information, read my post about layout tips which covers locations, placement, and sizing.

For our example, I'g going to size it at x″ wide. This is less than the standard 12″ broad full front and much smaller than the maximum width of 14″ wide (a size I detect to be fashion too large). At a modest ten″ broad, this print volition look great on diverse sized garments, and get out room for any blazon or other elements nosotros might like to add together. Hither it is shown on men's and women'due south:

Below is what that looks like nether Image > Image Size. Whether you are scaling upward or scaling down, start with setting the resolution to 300, so set up the image width to your desired size, then make sure y'all have Resample Epitome set to "Bicubic Automatic". This will ensure Photoshop works its magic to optimize the quality during the resizing.

You'll notice at the top information technology will tell you the difference in "pixel dimensions", which is essentially the file size. In this instance, by reducing the size of the image nosotros are saving some space on our desktop and making the file easier to share. If you lot are upscaling your image, this volition show an increase in file size.

As I mentioned earlier, upscaling does not increment the quality of the image file. Photoshop will smooth out the edges as we increase the number of pixels, just again, this is no substitute for starting with a higher quality image file.

iv. Affect upward the image

Touching up the prototype, besides known equally photo retouching, typically refers to fixing parts of it that have unwanted visual information. This tin can exist blemishes, cracks, spots, or any undesirable elements. This can be every bit small-scale every bit removing a scratch, or as major as what they do for magazine ads: smoothing faces, pilus, body parts, and everything else in the motion picture.

Photoshop is ameliorate than any pare cream.

The key here is to not overdo information technology. You desire the photo to look natural, without any obvious tinkering or "Photoshopping". In that location are many, many ways to go about this when you have lots of tools at your disposal. For the purposes of this postal service, I'll show you just one, possibly the well-nigh powerful of them all when it comes to retouching: the Clone Stamp.

The Clone Stamp allows you to take one part of an paradigm and put it over some other part of the same image (or over another part of any open document). You tin can likewise pigment office of i layer over another layer. It's especially useful for duplicating objects or removing a defect in an image. And when y'all see information technology in activity, it's like magic.

To use it, click the stamp icon in your Photoshop tools console. Make sure your brush is ready to the size and hardness that are advisable for the area you lot are working on– and exist prepared to modify the brush settings often as yous work. You may demand to go through some trial and error to get the brush settings right.

One time you have them set, hold down the option/alt key and your cursor volition turn into crosshairs, so when you lot click, it will set the starting pixel for the surface area of the prototype you are cloning. This will typically (merely not ever) be an expanse very close to the part you are fixing, because the colors, levels, and textures will exist the most similar.

In our example photo, I'chiliad going to remove one undesirable element in the paradigm. Do yous encounter it? On the man's hand, there is some kind of red postage– a distraction that doesn't need to be in that location. We're also going to remove the leaf that is leftover on the lesser border of the photo– some other visual distraction that nosotros're better off without.

When using the Clone Stamp, it's a adept idea to zoom in shut to the area you are working on. If you can make it look expert close up, it will definitely wait good zoomed out. Here'southward the prototype now that I accept fixed those trouble areas:

For more, check out this in-depth tutorial with tips on using the clone stamp. If y'all're new to this tool, my suggestion would be to take some time to practice on a separate image that you can make a mess of. Try removing various objects or even people from an image and see if you can do information technology seamlessly without whatever noticeable deviation. Practise makes perfect.

5. Adjust the levels

Levels depict the range of highlights, mid-tones, and shadows in an prototype. This is a broad category, and there are many ways to conform the levels. I'one thousand going to show you simply a few. While modern cameras, especially those on smartphones, have built-in features to optimize the levels of a flick you lot take, most photographs tin can apply some bones level adjustments.

When it comes to setting up a photo for press, you may want to over-correct in some ways. For instance, a print will typically end up darker, and so information technology'southward important to lighten up the original paradigm significantly. In our instance photo, there are some particularly dark areas of shadow that nosotros should be worried nearly, peculiarly in the faces. Hither's how to ready that.

Levels

The most basic adjustment of levels is (unsurprisingly) called Levels. You can go to it past pressing CMD+L or past going to the menu Paradigm > Adjustments > Levels. Doing so will pull upwardly a map showing you the current levels of the image, along with sliders to make adjustments. There's likewise a button called "Auto" to automatically adapt them but tin can give mixed results.

For almost photos, just especially this one which is also dark, what you desire to practice is utilise the sliders to bump upward the overall brightness, bringing details out of the shadows. Movement the far-right slider towards the left, and as well the center slider to the left, until it looks good. The far-left slider should only come up over a little fleck if at all to leave room. Call up, the impress will be darker.

On smartphone apps, this aligning will typically be called Brightness, or Lightness, or Exposure.

Every bit yous tin can come across, the entire image is brightened up and details that were in the shadows became visible. This isn't an exact science; it depends on the epitome and how yous want it to expect. Y'all might observe the photo gets a slightly done-out appearance. We'll gear up this with color adjustments. And we tin brand the shadows richer as well. Do you know Rich Black?

Curves

Some other tool for adjusting tones and boosting contrast, curves is a more than powerful version of levels. There is a learning bend (no pun intended) then I'm just going to give you the basics. Adobe has a more than in-depth tutorial on curves for beginners.

To open up the curves window, utilize CMD+M or go to the menu Image > Adjustments > Curves. You'll run across a histogram that represents the tonal ranges of your photo, and the diagonal line going across is the baseline. Make sure you have the push selected that says "Lite (0-255)" for your RGB image.

To brainstorm adjusting, click somewhere along the diagonal line to create a control bespeak. You lot tin make lots of these, but you shouldn't need to– it gets as well complicated. The most basic adjustment is to increase the overall brightness by lifting the center point up until you create a nice rounded hill. This is a good starting point to go a feel for what your photo volition demand.

One time once again though, every epitome is different and should require a different curve adjustment. Add a couple more points, one towards the highlights and some other towards the shadows and heighten or lower them accordingly. Play around until it looks good. You can besides click on the piffling mitt icon then click somewhere on the image to suit that particular tone.

Finally, drag the peak and bottom endpoints in to isolate adjustments to the chief part of the histogram. This is like to what we did with Levels, so over again don't bring that shadow slider all the way in. Nosotros want to leave some room there because the print will get darker than the photo looks on screen. Mostly, your photo should look a trivial brighter than normal.

If your image is grayish or flat looking– in other words, lacking dissimilarity– your curve should look similar a lazy "S". This is a standard curve adjustment for many images. In our instance, the photograph was mainly too dark (hence the colina curve with the gradient). In that location'due south a lot more than you can do. For a much more in-depth tutorial, read through this piece about understanding curves.

Contrivance and Burn

These Photoshop tools allow you to lighten or darken an image in specific areas. The odd names are based on a traditional darkroom technique for regulating exposure on specific areas of a print. In Photoshop, you lot can specify your brush size and hardness, the exposure (strength of the result), and whether you are applying to the highlights, mid-tones, or shadows.

It's a powerful tool, so continue that exposure setting low until you go the hang of information technology. I'll typically go on it low anyway, allowing the effect to exist applied gradually so it doesn't become out of control. Keep in listen that the issue is continuous while you press downwardly, unlike a paintbrush or some other tools. In other words, be conscientious how long you utilize it to any given area.

In our example photo, I used these tools in 2 areas, as you lot can see in the GIF to a higher place.

1. I "dodged" the mid-tones in the faces and some of the shadows of the subjects. Lightening upwards these areas was an important pace in the whole process because those darker areas were a danger zone for getting even darker when it prints. And the last matter you want to lose is the facial features of your subjects.
2. I "burned" the shadows of the mountain and trees. To the human being eye, lighter things tend to come forward in space, then it was important to make sure the groundwork looked like information technology's in the background. It also proves greater contrast with the subjects in the foreground and gives the colors of the mountains and trees a deeper, richer expect.

Again, the thing to pay attention to when dodging and burning is making sure you apply the effect consistently, otherwise you can become an uneven slightly cloudy expect. These tools are all-time used when yous need very item areas or details adjusted. Or, as in our case, you need something done apace and hands.

Let's get this done right meow.

The longer (but more than accurate) manner is to make selections then apply levels, curves or other adjustment tools on those selections. In this case, it would mean carefully tracing around edges of the subjects to isolate them and select the background. It would have made for a more accurate and fifty-fifty adjustment– though non noticeable to the average viewer.

Hither's a tutorial on how to work "not destructively" with dodge and fire, keeping your original intact if you need to become back.

vi. Adjust the colors

Now we get to the colors– adjustments that should be saved until the final steps considering it can complicate things down the line if you do them first. In that location are many means to suit the colors. I could make a whole blog mail most this topic alone (and I probably will). For at present, I'll touch on a few of the main ways to get this pace done without spending likewise much time.

Hue/Saturation

The low-hanging fruit when it comes to optimizing an paradigm for press is saturation, which defines the intensity, or purity of the hues. When we adjusted the curves before, we lost a little bit of saturation, so we want to get that back and and then bump it up. How much, you ask? In that location's going to be a sweet spot to look for, right between too little and too much, naturally.

It's like shooting fish in a barrel to run across when something is oversaturated, equally shown in the example above. The colors start looking unnatural and finally, everything turns neon. If y'all go to Paradigm > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation you lot can play with the slider and get a experience for your particular photo and where the sweet spot is. For printing you want it to be merely a bit more than saturated than normal.

The problem with Hue/Saturation is that it's a blunt instrument, boosting the saturation of all the colors across the board. You tin can choose item colors to saturate and this can exist helpful just information technology can too produce mixed results with odd contrasts. There is another tool I would recommend for this task called Vibrance and can be constitute in the same menu.

Vibrance

Vibrance will boost colors relative to one another, meaning it volition leave colors solitary that are already saturated. It also comes with a Saturation slider in the same tool, which is helpful. I find that bumping the vibrancy fairly high and bumping the saturation just slightly does a neat task. Here's how that looks:

You can see the colors have get richer, only we don't get that unnatural look which can happen from boosting upward the saturation alone. In our example photo the skin tones, especially in the faces, now look a little too reddish, and there's an easy fashion to solve this, and it comes in the form of a sponge.

Sponge Tool

The sponge tends to be disregarded in Photoshop, only it's a powerful and handy way to saturate or desaturate particular areas of an image. It'south found in the same toolset every bit dodge and burn down, and works in a like style: you tin can specify your castor size and softness, choose whether you are saturating or desaturating, and set your desired strength, or "flow".

For our example image, I wanted to exercise 3 things with the sponge tool: 1) desaturate the colors in the faces and a few other areas of skin, 2) desaturate the mountain and trees just a bit, and 3) saturate the lake more to brand that lovely turquoise color popular. Here's the result after doing those things (keep in mind, at this point the changes are more than subtle):

Pro tip: Color Residual

Side by side upwards, let'southward accept a look at Color Residue, another powerful feature that tin can drastically alter the await for your epitome. This tool tin can turn your colors inside-out to the point where it looks like pop art, and y'all have the ability to affect the highlights, mid-tones, and shadows separately. For our purposes, we don't need to get crazy, I just want to absurd down the shadows.

Again, this might be so subtle information technology's hard to discover the deviation, but I'yard choosing to move the hue of the shadows just slightly from the warmer colors of reds and yellows to the cooler colors of cyans and blues. This accomplishes two things: it makes the photo look more than natural and it gives a meliorate contrast against the warmer colors coming forrad, adding some depth.

All of these color adjustment tools can be learned through trial and error– you don't need to be a photographer (merely it does help). Just move those sliders effectually and see what happens. Create multiple layers so y'all tin can play effectually without messing up the original, and attempt different images and see what happens.

You'll kickoff to get the feel for what this does and how it can assistance.

Pro tip: Supercede Color

Another powerful tool, feature, Supervene upon Color allows you to select a item colour in the image, set the parameters of the selection (called "Fuzziness"), and then change the hue, saturation, and brightness of just that colour. What I ordinarily do is get those three sliders prepare to what I desire, and so adjust the Fuzziness slider and come across what happens in the image.

What I used information technology for here, shown above, is to conform the colour of just the sky lonely. You lot tin can see the parameters of the option in white, just beneath the Fizziness slider. As you tin can encounter my adjustment is too affecting the highlight of the man's T-shirt, which is fine with me, as I wanted there to exist a contrast betwixt the sky blueish colors and turquoise blue colors in the photo.

Pro tip: Selective Color

Concluding merely not least (the last of what I'm showing you in this post, anyway) is Selective Color. This one falls somewhere betwixt Color Residual and Supercede Color as far as it's breadth. Information technology's more specific than Colour Balance but less specific than Replace Color. Nonetheless with me? Here's how it works.

It essentially gives y'all CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellowish, blackness) sliders to balance each broad color grouping, plus highlights, mid-tones, and shadows. Yous can apply this to radically change the colors of your photo.

All I want it to exercise for ours is something of a pro tip: make our blacks richer. You might not notice the divergence, but in the print, you would. In traditional CMYK printing, at that place's black (K) and then there's Rich Black, aka True Blackness (K +CMY).

Rich Black, as yous might imagine, is Blackness plus some corporeality of the other colors added to it. The reason for its existence is that when regular black doesn't take other colors in it, it can come out looking like nighttime charcoal when printed and have a slight edge where it contrasts against the colors. And then it'southward an former printer'south fob to add colors to black when doing a separation.

We can accomplish this pull a fast one on using Selective color:

This will ensure a shine transition between color areas into black areas and give the whole print more cohesion.

7. Sharpen the image

Sharpening is a hugely important step you lot can take to optimize your image for printing. It'due south more than merely bringing things into focus. It helps ascertain the edges of shapes, improves the visibility of details, and prevents some of the normal blurring that will happen in any kind of printing process. Photoshop has a suite of tools to exercise this under the carte Filter > Sharpen.

Unsharp Mask is my become-to, equally it gives y'all the virtually control. Smart Acuminate also useful in particular circumstances, which I'll get to in another post. For this one, permit's wait at like shooting fish in a barrel four steps that volition become united states where nosotros need to be using Unsharp Mask.

Commencement with a radius of 1 pixel and heave the amount way up to the maximum of 500, simply so you can see what'southward happening.

Side by side, increase the radius until you can come across a singled-out outline around everything– not too thick or besides sparse.

Then, subtract the amount to a more reasonable level, until the outlines are more than subtle. At this point, it'south a expert idea to turn the checkbox for "Preview" off and on over again then y'all tin see the deviation between this and the original.

Finally, bump up the threshold a few pixels, enough to reduce some of the "noise" created in the larger areas. Now click OK.

Sharpening is nifty, but there's definitely a point where you can go besides far…

At that place yous have it. Those seven steps will get y'all where y'all desire to be and have an image that is optimized and impress-gear up. I'one thousand giving y'all iii more optional steps, but first, let's have a moment to see how far we've come.

Before:

After:

Optional adjustments

Now that we've gone through the master means to set up your epitome, the next three are optional ideas to brand your image look adept printed on a T-shirt or other garment, and more and so in the design category rather than optimizing the photograph quality.

eight. Remove the background

This is ane of the more tedious optimizations, simply the results are worth information technology. Designs that are masked or isolated from whatever background just look better as a print. Square or rectangle designs can have a pasted-on look (or ironed-on for those of you who call up those). Removing the groundwork takes some time and patience, so get comfortable and grab a java.

There are various ways to accomplish this. Ane is to simply use the Eraser tool and get groovy. Use a softer edge castor as you get shut to the desired edges. Another is to utilize the Background Eraser tool. It takes some getting used to and some piddling with the settings to get right, but it does work similar a amuse is some areas, particularly effectually problem areas like hair.

So there are the selection tools. You tin go old schoolhouse and draw along the edge with the Lasso tool. Or requite the Magnetic Lasso a whirl, which is designed to stick to edges that it detects. If you have a plainly flat groundwork you can hands select that with the Magic Wand and delete it. You lot tin can also use the Masks characteristic to "pigment" the areas you lot want to remove.

For our example I faded out the lesser edge as well, rather than having it cut-off:

9. Add together some furnishings

Now we get to a really fun one. There are dozens of preset filters in Photoshop (and other graphics programs). At that place are probably hundreds you lot tin can go equally plug-ins. And when you start combining these things, the number of options become into the hundreds of thousands of million gazillions of possible filters and effects. Good luck deciding!

Photoshop has an entire pull-down card dedicated to filters, such as calculation noise, blurring, distorting, liquifying, pixelating, halftoning, tiling, embossing, posterizing, solarizing, you name information technology. They also take a Filter Gallery with lots of options to go crazy with. It'southward like Instagram filters on steroids. If you like special effects, you'll be the proverbial child in the processed store.

Above are a dozen filters I used correct out of the box, picayune much at random, simply to requite you some examples. Hither are some gratuitous Photoshop plug-ins and in that location's enough more where those came from. Ok, perhaps not the same place, only other places. The betoken is, there are a lot. If yous can imagine some effect yous want, in that location's probably a filter out there to practice the job.

My advice is to keep it simple and use the built-in features. It's easy to get carried abroad with filters and effects, and your photo ends up looking besides weird and distorted. Just hey, peradventure that'southward what you want.

10. Add a border

This is one of my favorite things to recommend for photograph prints because it'south like shooting fish in a barrel to practice and looks keen. There are simple designs where you want an image slapped on a shirt with no border, but nearly of the fourth dimension a border will improve the look and quality of the print, even if it's just a sparse line. And of form, in that location are many options for borders, which I've written about.

Recap:

1. Commencement with high resolution.
2. Crop the image.
3. Resize the image.
4. Bear upon up the prototype.
5. Adjust the levels.
6. Adjust the colors.
7. Acuminate the image.
8. Remove the background.
9. Add some effects.
10. Add a border.

I hope this was informative, helpful and your prints come out slap-up. When yous've optimized your prototype, upload information technology here!

Happy designing,
-Grand

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